Author: Dan Harris

Three days spent in Marin country having an AWESOME time with college-friend Mark and his charming wife, Tracy. Despite the rain.  And RAIN IT MOST CERTAINLY DID.  Enough to affect in some small or not so small way everything we did. 

Day 1: We drove up to Sonoma Country for some Wine Tasting.  The normal route we would have taken would have put us at our first tasting room within 45 minutes or so.  That route was closed.  We had to drive about 90 minutes.  As a result we “only” could make it to two places. Both excellent.  After which we drove back and had excellent Indian Food.   

Day 2: We headed up north to Russian River Brewing Company; also in Sonoma County.  They have an annual release of something called “Pliny the Younger.”  A beer in limited release, such that people line up for blocks to get in to the tap room.  .  We figured since it was Thursday, and rain had closed several access roads,  we would NOT be faced with this.  We were wrong.  A line of very wet aficionados, all of whom must be retired, unemployed or soon-to-be-unemployed,  over 2 blocks long!   Fortunately,  we had passed a perfectly reasonable plan “B” for beer and lunch.  Plan “B” was back south — 20 minutes from Mark and Tracy’s —  so we drove 2+ hours including our fruitless (and beer-less) visit to RRBC.    No worries…lots of conversation.  This was followed by dinner “in” at Mark and Tracy’s.   

As part of our plan for Day 2,  we unhooked the Clown car and parked it at Mark and Tracy’s.  MAJOR RAIN was forecast,  and the RV Park is right on the estuary.   Not so worried about the bus…it is pretty high off the ground and quite heavy.  And the proprietor of the RV park assured us the worst they ever have is a little standing water.  Still, we thought it might be best to have the CC elsewhere because even with only a few inches of water we might have to retrieve it floating in the bay.   Little did we know several hillsides in San Rafael would come down…and the gutters on all the streets became rushing torrents.  But none near the CC.  And the RV Park was not flooded.   

Day 3:  For the first time…SUN!!!  We WALKED to and around nearby San Anselmo, where we met some of Tracy and Mark’s friends who own a store selling Infused Olive Oils and Special flavored Balsamic Vinegars from their own family business in Italy.  When we got there, they were just finishing cleaning up some of the water that came into their store under the sand bags.  We got a lesson on the oils and vinegars, lots of tastes and some special mixtures.  WOW what fantastic flavors.  We acquired several for the bus,  and lessons on how to use each (Gilberto is a chef in addition to a purveyor of such delicacies. ).  We learned about a drink called a “Shrub” that features flavored Balsamic Vinegar and sparkling water.  Of course,  it must be an EXCELLENT Balsamic Vinegar,  or it will just taste like a pickle.  We tried several…Honey-Ginger,  Grapefruit, Apricot, Mango…Very refreshing.  No designated driver necessary and no hangover possible (no alcohol).   

If anyone is interested,  you can learn more and order online:  Amphoranueva.com.    Try the Honey Ginger and/or Grapefruit Vinegars for Shrubs and Mission Fig Vinegar for Salads or a Salmon Baste on the Grill.  Or Tunisian Baklouti (Green Chilli Oil) on grilled veggies.       

After our education and a round of Shrubbery,  we went to a local bar where Mark and Tracy (and a LOT of others) watch the GS Warriors.  We have always noticed that showing an interest in local sports gets a traveler special consideration and acceptance  among locals – maybe even a get-out-of-jail-free card — in far-away places.  So,  Gaelic Football in Ireland,  Rugby or Cricket in New Zealand, Aussie Rules in Oz – and I guess NBA Basketball in San Francisco!!   Fortunately,  the bar was willing to put Blackhawks Hockey up on one little screen in the corner.  Warriors won, Blackhawks won and Dan and Liz won! 

Leaving Marin we headed for some extraordinary places.  For example, a stay at the Moose Lodge in Bullhead City, Az.  And, for Valentine’s Day we are going to Flagstaff, Az.  As we drove through the Mojave Desert, it was RAINING.  Well,  just a little.  But enough for a rainbow!  Check it out,  just next to the truck in the Picture below.

Spending several days in Half Moon Bay, just south of San Francisco. This is more like we imagined our travels.  Up until now,  we have been pretty actively moving.  At HMB,  we have been pretty actively relaxing!   Our friends Mike and Fran McDowell counselled us on this. When full-time RVing,  don’t think like you are on vacation…it is OK to not do sumthin every minute.  Sometimes you need to read  a book,  do laundry, etc.  So,  from now on when we feel like we are too frantic about activity we shall channel Sensei Mike,  relaxation guru.

The State Park where we are staying is great.  We are 50’ from beach.  People are extremely friendly — we have given a bunch of bus tours.  There is an excellent coastal bike trail,  which we have used every day.  There is a very nice Brew-pub about 2 miles away right on that bike trail.  Several restaurants serve fresh,  locally caught Crab.  You can also buy said-crab directly from the boats.

On Tuesday,  we drove down to San Jose to catch a Blackhawks game v. the San Jose Sharks. Our neighbor at the park was also going!  He gave us recommendations on where to park (for cheap — $7) and where to eat.  On the latter,  the wait was too long so we went to a small Mexican place and had an excellent (and inexpensive) burrito.  The game result was not what we might have liked,  but we had a really good time.  And it WAS a good game, until the last 2 minutes.    There were a LOT of red sweaters in the crowd and a lot of always perfectly appropriate and polite trash-talk.

Getting tickets to the game was more drama than it should have been.  Bought them on line from Ticketmaster.  After gladly accepting my credit card, their system would not deliver them to me.  Their tech support could not figure out why,  could not deliver them to me, and could not promise they would be available at Will Call.  One agent, about an hour before the event,  actually had the nerve to say, “If They are not able to produce them at Will Call,  call us back and we will work on a refund!”   

WOW.  I explained to her that we had travelled 2,500 miles for this event (I did not disclose that we had done a few other things along the way) and a refund, therefore, would NOT BE ACCEPTABLE.   When we got to Will Call,  in fact SAP Center staff, too, could not get the tickets for us.  But to their credit, even though we were wearing the enemy sweater,  they ultimately prevailed and provided our tickets.   

As a final insult,  the morning after the game I got an email from Ticketmaster Support.  It said:  “It seems this is a past event, and it took place Tuesday the 31st of this Month, Hopefully everything went smoothly and someone attended and enjoyed event.”  In the email,  there was a link to a customer survey…it was broken! 

The rest of the week we spent at the park in relax-mode.  Some bike riding.  Some bus-fixing – and even an idea for a Clown Car Engine upgrade….  Laundry.  I even set up Liz’s WII for her morning exercise.  Yoga and some more-active things such as a hula-hoop simulator.  I PROMISED her I would not post a video,  but I can describe!  The hula hoop thing had the bus vigorously rocking back and forth.  I wonder if neighboring folks are getting the wrong idea about what we do for exercise? 

On Thursday we met cousins Kevin and Cecily for dinner at the Half Moon Bay Brewing Company.  Our original plans were to first have cocktails at the bus, then dinner,  but the weather closed in (again).  Off-and-on rain and 40 MPH winds right off the ocean.  Adaptability is key…we had previously stopped at HMBBC on bikes to sample their liquid wares, so we knew that cocktails THERE would be wunnerful (and dry).   The menu turned out to be broad and excellent,  and it was good to catch up.  

Friday we head up to Walnut Creek where we have a special permit to park the bus in front of friends Dan and Karolyn Ray’s house.  We have a new definition of friendship now: Friends, knowing advance HOW we are visiting still arrange/encourage a permit (vs. arranging to be out of town!).  There are (and should be) limits to friendship however.  Dan keeps insisting that the “best” parking place is in front of his neighbor’s house.  I wonder,  is there a spat going on with the neighbor?  Do the Rays want plausible deniability if we turn out to be “Uncle Eddie” RVers?

Before leaving HMB,  we became the target of an apparent act of random kindness.  Someone left a bottle of wine on our doorstep.  No note.  No indication of the donor.  Or,  for the more cynical, the California Wine Board (is there such a thing) is trying to create new “junkies?”

FOLLOWUP:  It turns out, the donor was….the Sharks Fans from the RV next to us.  Such nice people…or possibly the ultimate trash-talk.  Help the Hawks fans drown their sorrows…

Before you look it up,  there is NO LAKE MARIN.  Just a reference to our RV park, which became a lake after torrential (and nearly perpetual) rain.  The bus is high and dry,  but there is a lake at the entrance. Not too worried about getting the bus out (very high clearance), but we may have to hope the Clown Car will float along after us.  

I am getting ahead of myself…

We left Walnut Creek after a VERY SUCCESSFUL Super Bowl Party.  By that  I do NOT mean we were rooting for the Patriots.  I DO mean that we ate more than our fill of Super Bowl Party fare, including Karolyn Ray’s WORLD FAMOUS Bean Dip.    Now some might say that there is a bit of exaggeration in that statement, but NO.  I was there a few years back when a mutual friend from Australia partook of said bean dip at one of the Ray’s previous Superbowl Fetes.  So therefore it is WORLD FAMOUS.

While in Walnut Creek we had a terrific time catching up with old friends.  And I do mean OLD. To keep the “Dans” straight,  Dan Ray’s Brother-in-law took to calling us “Old Dan” and “Tall Dan.”    We parked right in front of the Ray’s house, a special permit arranged for by Old Dan.  Not sure,  but I think the local officials wanted (required?) Dan to keep an eye on us at all times. 

Anyway,  during our stay,  we played Bocce Ball,  tasted wine, ate, drank and were generally merry.  Old Dan invited us back, and I think he had in mind to help him construct his imagined Bocce Ball Court in the back yard (which would involve moving tons of hillside).  Old Dan thought Tall Dan would look very GQ with a shovel in his hand.  Despite this obvious (not hidden) motive, It was AWESOME to connect with friends and take up right where we left off several years previous. 

Leaving Walnut Creek we proceeded to Marin County and a small RV park right by the Larkspur Ferry.  Passing through the toll booth on the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge,  we pulled up to the “Cash” agent.  The sign said “$5 Autos.”  He looked up at me, down the side of the bus and  onwards towards the towed-clown car.  He said, ”$20 please.”   I am wondering if he noticed I had that exact denomination in my hand and was just trying to make it convenient for me…Or, perhaps the toll was $10 and he assumed I was in a tipping mood?

Unhooking the Clown Car, we drove to the People’s Republic of Berkeley (PRB) and dinner with former neighbors from Chicago.  Sara had encouraged us to also park in front of THEIR house. Actually,  she was hoping in front of their neighbor’s,  who is fond of chanting mantras while smoking (medicinal) herbs under their bedroom window.  We would have been happy to oblige,  perhaps even aiming the exhaust pipe at that house and undertaking some engine maintenance.  But fortunately Brian was more thoughtful.  They live on a winding, narrow,  VERY STEEP street (9 degrees,  Brian said).  “RV Where Yet” would have NEVER made it up.  And if by chance we did make it up,  RV-Would-Still-Be-There-Yet.  Knowing this was why we decided to drive over to Marin and then come back.      

For dinner,  we had Thai – missed that.  I think we have not had such a meal since leaving Chicago.  After dinner we walked down the street with an intention of having Ice Cream.  Instead,  the shop had closed (15 minutes BEFORE the closing time shown on the door).  So we went back to Brian and Sara’s and had an after-dinner drink. Malört was offered.  Never had that before so was intrigued.  AAAACKKK.   After a smell from the glass and a sip,  I realized I HAD had Malört before.  But the last time,  I had used it to clean paint brushes. That Malört came in a different container. 

Heading back to Marin after dinner was a white-knuckle drive.  The weather was closing in again … HEAVY rain expected and VERY windy.  The Clown Car does NOT have a very deep wheel-base or much in the way of weight. So let’s just say the conditions were not ideal for us in particular.  It was eerie…there was NO traffic.  I wondered if the road was actually closed and we were headed for disaster.  Liz practiced tapping her heels and chanting “I want to go home…”   We took it slow across the Richmond Bridge (quite a long bridge over the SF Bay – with nothing to break the wind) back to our Marin RV Base. 

It rained all night,  and in the morning the RV Park was partially a lake.  We were dry,  but for a time no one could get in.  There was a break in the weather projected for about 36 hours,  and we planned to connect with College friend Mark Morris and his wife, Tracy. Not sure with the rain if hiking or bike-riding are possible,  but Mark reminded me that most Wineries and Taprooms are INDOORS.   Good thing.  As it turned out,  there was NO break in the weather at all.  

Spending several days in Half Moon Bay, just south of San Francisco. This is more like we imagined our travels.  Up until now,  we have been pretty actively moving.  At HMB,  we have been pretty actively relaxing!   Our friends Mike and Fran McDowell counselled us on this. When full-time RVing,  don’t think like you are on vacation…it is OK to not do sumthin every minute.  Sometimes you need to read  a book,  do laundry, etc.  So,  from now on when we feel like we are too frantic about activity we shall channel Sensei Mike,  relaxation guru. 

The State Park where we are staying is great.  We are 50’ from beach.  People are extremely friendly — we have given a bunch of bus tours.  There is an excellent coastal bike trail,  which we have used every day.  There is a very nice Brew-pub about 2 miles away right on that bike trail.  Several restaurants serve fresh,  locally caught Crab.  You can also buy said-crab directly from the boats.

On Tuesday,  we drove down to San Jose to catch a Blackhawks game v. the San Jose Sharks. Our neighbor at the park was also going!  He gave us recommendations on where to park (for cheap — $7) and where to eat.  On the latter,  the wait was too long so we went to a small Mexican place and had an excellent (and inexpensive) burrito. 

The game result was not what we might have liked,  but we had a really good time.  And it WAS a good game, until the last 2 minutes.    There were a LOT of red sweaters in the crowd and a lot of always appropriate and polite trash-talk.

Getting tickets to the game was more drama than it should have been.  We bought them on line from Ticketmaster.  After gladly accepting my credit card, their system would not deliver tickets to me.  Their tech support could not figure out why,  also could not deliver them to me, and could not even promise they would be available at Will Call.  One agent, about an hour before the event,  actually had the nerve to say, “If They are not able to produce them at Will Call,  call us back and we will work on a refund!”    WOW.  I explained to her that we had travelled 2,500 miles for this event (I did not disclose that we had done a few other things along the way) and a refund, therefore, would NOT BE ACCEPTABLE.  

When we got to Will Call,  in fact SAP Center staff, too, could not get the tickets for us.  But to their credit, even though we were wearing the enemy sweater,  they ultimately prevailed and provided our tickets.    

As a final insult,  the morning after the game I got an email from Ticketmaster Support.  It said:  “It seems this is a past event, and it took place Tuesday the 31st of this Month, Hopefully everything went smoothly and someone attended and enjoyed event.”  In the email,  there was a link to a customer survey…it was broken! 

The rest of the week we spent at the park in relax-mode.  Some bike riding.  Laundry.  Some bus-fixing – and even an idea for a Clown Car Engine upgrade….   I even set up Liz’s WII for her morning exercise.  Yoga and some more-active things such as a hula-hoop simulator.  I PROMISED her I would not post a video,  but I can describe!  The hula hoop thing had the bus vigorously rocking back and forth.  I wonder if neighboring folks are getting the wrong idea about what we do for exercise? 

On Thursday we met cousins Kevin and Cecily for dinner at the Half Moon Bay Brewing Company.  Our original plans were to first have cocktails at the bus, then dinner,  but the weather closed in (again).  Off-and-on rain and 40 MPH winds right off the ocean.  Adaptability is key…we had previously stopped at HMBBC on bikes to sample their liquid wares, so we knew that cocktails THERE would be wunnerful (and dry).   The menu turned out to be broad and excellent,  and it was good to catch up.   

Friday we head up to Walnut Creek where we have a special permit to park the bus in front of friends Dan and Karolyn Ray’s house.  We have a new definition of friendship now: Knowing in advance HOW we are visiting, “Friends”  still arrange/encourage a permit (vs. arranging to be out of town!). 

There are (and should be) limits to friendship however.  Dan keeps insisting that the “best” parking place is in front of his neighbor’s house.  I wonder,  is there a spat going on with the neighbor?  Do the Rays want plausible deniablility if we turn out to be “Uncle Eddie” RVers?

Before leaving HMB,  we became the target of an apparent act of random kindness.  Someone left a bottle of wine on our doorstep.  No note.  No indication of the donor.  Or,  for the more cynical, the California Wine Board (is there such a thing?) is trying to create new “junkies?”

---

FOLLOWUP:  It turns out, the donor was….the Sharks Fans from the RV next to us.  Such nice people…or possibly the ultimate trash-talk.  Help the Hawks fans drown their sorrows…

After our great experiences in Central California,  we continued North to Santa Cruz.  There,  our friend Phyllis arranged for us to park in the overflow area of the Pasatiempo Golf Course,  where she lives.   With all the rain they have had here,  “Overflow” is the perfect word!  But at least currently high and dry. During our time in Santa Cruz,  we actually stayed with Phyllis,  not in the bus.    This meant a FULL SIZE Shower.  Real bed.  SUPER WiFi!!!   

In exchange for such magnificent accommodations,  Liz insisted I earn our keep.  Therefore,  I helped troubleshoot a phone problem (which turned into a Comcast problem and 2+hours talking to Comcast morons on the phone…how I don’t miss those!).  I also sharpened knives and provided counseling on proper international power adapters.  Liz  offered advice on online banking and Kindle Reader options.  Phyllis’ eyes were starting to glass-over.  Maybe it was the Port, which we purchased while staying at Rio Seco Winery,  that we were all drinking?  

During our Santa Cruz visit we did a bit of touring with Phyllis.  This included a Sushi extravaganza (so nice to have NOT deep-fried fresh fish) and a visit to the waterfront area in SC…which had been pretty badly flooded by the recent rains.   

On Saturday 28 Jan, we were talking about going to the Monterrey Aquarium.  I mentioned that there had been a story in the News about Chinese New Year Celebrations (noteworthy for the lack of political content)…Phyllis thought there wasn’t much happening on that score in Santa Cruz.  BOY WAS SHE WRONG!  Out of the blue,  a friend with whom Phyllis works texted…Would Phyllis like to visit a mutual friend for THEIR New Year celebration.  Phyllis described her hangers on (that would be us),  but Sister Rosa said she was sure we’d be welcome,  and she confirmed this with friend Ping.  So at noon,  Sister Rosa picked us up. 

And what a magnificent celebration it was!  All of Ping’s extended family…from her father (95), 2 brothers (one visiting from China), kids,  kids friends, general friends, coworkers…at least 40 people.  Also,  another of Phyllis’ fabulous coworkers:  Marta, from Guadalajara,  of Lebanese derivation.   

POLITICS ALERT:  Couldn’t help think about the scope of the melting pot in this place, gathered among the cooking pots to celebrate.

Ping opened her house to us,  and her house opened into a backyard compound that shared a back yard with her son’s house, and a small shed and chicken coop.  In the back yard,  and in both kitchens,  various foods were being prepared.  A HUGE wok in the back yard produced a continuous stream of dumplings of all manner.  Shrimp and “Garlic Chive” (a delicacy that one of Ping’s friends said grows wild all over…Wisconsin) wrapped in sea weed and batter.  Fish and Tree-fungus with celery.  A Casserole with mushrooms, shoots, some sort of moss and Pigs feet – which according to custom brings wealth in the new year.  Special Tea with a lesson on the kinds of tea that will keep us aging gracefully.  All the while, great conversation with all of the collected friends and family.

This was a continuous feast beginning at noon.  We left about 6:00. According to Ping,  another wave was expected and the cooking continued  – Several people cooking at once and Ping, who formerly had a restaurant, now managing all of the culinary and conversational aspects like a conductor. 

 After a few days in Santa Cruz,  we are headed next to Half Moon Bay,  a little further up the coast towards San Francisco.  We have booked a spot in a state park for a few days.  Not much planned,  other than catching a Hawks game in nearby San Jose.

We  made it across Arizona and NM.  It rained off and on throughout this desert.  Then we spent some time with friends in San Diego.  Our friends, Stefania and Jim, arranged a street parking permit for our RV and we were able to find a spot about 200 yds from their apartment.  It was great to catch up,  and to be formally accepted into California culture.  By that I mean,  after breakfast we spent some time in the hot tub!

After San Diego,  we left for Huntington Beach, CA where we connected with old friends Fran and Mike McDowell. They also travel and camp — in their case in a cool Airstream Trailer.  We try to organize our orbits to intersect occasionally,  and Huntington Beach and the next stop, Palm Desert coincide nicely.  Fran found the campgrounds,  and deserves the credit in this case!

Anyway,  in HB we were offered a whole series of significant Pacific Storms.  Lots of rain and wind.  Huntington Beach was not a total washout, though.  A GREAT RV parking facility hard against the beach and right next to the Huntington beach Pier.  The beach had excellent bicycle paths for miles.  The pier had a restaurant that served EXCELLENT hand-dipped malts. The mainstreet of HB had a nice breakfast place.  And there was an excellent Mexican restaurant with a bar/balcony overlooking the sunset. 

After a couple of days in HB,  we saddled up and headed for Palm Desert.  This was NOT a pleasant drive.  The Pacific Storms kept rolling in.  Massive rains.  60mph winds.  Fog.  Keeping the bus on the road was far more challenging than it should have been. Rain predicted 2 of the three days we plan to be in PD.  Snow in the mountains surrounding. An old friend who lives in PD part of the year had this to say:  

The California legislature is considering an ordinance to create new border checkpoints for the purpose of turning away Chicagoans and their weather.  All I can say is:  “Chicagoans are NOT paying for it.”

While in HB,  we visited the Nixon Library in nearby Yorba Linda.  As has happened to me before,  at other Presidential Libraries, the complexity and breadth of the man conflicts with my simple memories.  I was particularly surprised by Nixon’s efforts for universal healthcare, creation of the EPA, Title IX and many, many other progressive initiatives.  The first “nixed” by the democrats at the time. Reminds me how astray our politicians and politics are…”NO” to what the other side wants to do seems to be the only policy.  Sorry.  Politics again.

Arriving at Palm Desert, another first:  The lady checking us in to the “resort” asked us how old our bus is. A common question.  Usually followed by, “COOL, can we have a tour?!”  This time a little different.   “We don’t allow RVs older than 10 years… ”  Hmmm.  Keeping the rabble (or the Chicagoans-bringing-bad-weather) out!   There was the realization that the website where we registered (and which gladly charged our credit card) had no such restriction, so how could we know? Ultimately, she invented a new category “Vintage” and finished checking us in.  We said we hoped she wouldn’t get in trouble — would anyone complain?  She said she was absolutely POSITIVE someone would complain, but she then said, “They don’t run our lives.” 

Saturday is apparently “RV Detailing Day” as there are many service vehicles polishing various of our neighbors.  As if to punish us (and the office lady who was able to see “Vintage” not OLD) for degrading the resort, I immediately broke off a key in the door lock.  Fortunately,  was able to get the remnant turned enuf to open the door and then out so I wouldn’t have to climb in a window.  What would the neighbors have said about that, I wonder?  Anyway, no one was the wiser.

We spent some time at the Palm Desert “Street Fair” which is just an upscale flea market–right down to the booth titled “Cool things you didn’t know you needed.”  We are space-limited even for uncool things we definitely need,  so wallet stayed in pocket.   

After the fair we visited the Annenberg Estate and Center on the recommendation of a friend who lives here.  In a trip full of surprises,  the latter is certainly one of the most.  Here is a family who,  after making millions (actually billions),  used their money (and committed their legacy) to create a center for presidents and leaders of the world’s nations to meet and discuss solutions.  With fabulous architecture, world-class art and sustainable landscaping, the idyllic surroundings and distance from partisan norms cannot help but put them in a constructive mood.  It affirms for me that the very wealthy can choose (have an obligation to?) to create an unselfish,  lasting POSITIVE legacy for the world.

After dinner with our old friend in PD,  we are off again tomorrow.  Our goal is to head north,  for the Bay area.  But the weather may be a SIGNIFICANT obstacle.  We are planning to head west to Santa Monica then North on HWY 1 (Pacific Coast Highway).  We are going to have to be very aware of the weather,  landslides, flash floods, etc.  The good news is,  we are not in a hurry.  The better news is we have a fully-configured hotel suite and fully stocked fridge on the road with us.  If we get “stranded” we shall not be uncomfortable!

As we’ve wandered,  we have covered more than a few ecosystems and cultures across the southern USA.  Here are a few of our observations: 

NOT ALL WALMARTS are the same!  Yes. It is true. We are quite the experts on this subject, now. 

Walmarts in general WANT us to stay overnight in their nice, big, secure parking lots.  Because we shop.  Every time. But in Yuma, AZ, we were actually TURNED DOWN for overnight parking.  This is a first for us.  Now we know that some Walmarts do not allow overnight parking,  but this is usually the result of municipal ordinances. We actually have an app that we consult before we arrive to make sure our target Walmart is not one of those.  Then, we always ask the manager.  Who almost always (always,  until today) sez “Of Course. WELCOME.”      Today,  the answer was an immediate “NO.” Almost a “HELL NO.”  I cannot fathom what injustice the last RVer did to cause this brusque treatment,  but I have visions of Uncle Eddie and a Hose…uggghhh.   Anyway, we took our disposable income and left the store.  That store WILL NOT sell us laundry detergent…no way!!  Pointing west to EL CENTRO California.

The El Centro Walmart Supercenter returned to the courteous and gracious column. ABSOLUTELY.  Please park here.   This Walmart was the BIGGEST WE HAVE EVER SEEN.  By a good deal!   HUGE. I would say easily twice the size of any other we have been to.  And we have some experience in this matter.      We did our shopping while gawking..  Some say that the ”Free” overnight in Walmart is the MOST EXPENSIVE of any RV Overnight option including some very fancy resorts and I think that is true because we ALWAYS go shopping. 

Other differences we have noticed: 

• Walmarts in New Mexico and Arizona often have parking lots covered with Solar Panels…
• Walmarts in Texas do not carry Hummus and when asked,  have no idea what that is. 

And while we are on the subject of familiar things that are not so familiar…

Seafood… Locally caught, fresh seafood is often (usually?) deep fried in Alabama and Northwest Florida. Sushi is non-existent. “Friday Night Fish Fry,” a staple of Midwest VFW lodges and Packer bars would be a strange phenomenon down here in Texas/NM.   Maybe Fish Tacos.

DQ’sare everywhere,  but their local marketing does vary.  Entering Texas,  we are informed by a large billboard that “DQ is a Texas Stop Sign.”  Not wanting to disobey any traffic laws,  we usually oblige.  Question:  If you use the drive-through, could you be ticketed for a rolling stop?

Spanish…In a large part of the southwest,  Spanish is the first language (or at least tied for first).  Leading to some thoughtful misunderstanding.

 Roadkill, too, is an indicator of where you are.  Often the species is not recognizable,  but when it is,   it might be: 

— Deer. Of course,  there are deer everywhere.

— In Florida and Alabama you might also see wild pigs

— In Texas,  Javelina.

— I have yet to see an Armadillo,  but I am told they are everywhere

— Rarely if ever do you see a coyote…they apparently are way too smart to get hit by cars.

Weather verbs and adjectives require translation.  For example,  “Cold” does not mean Chicago-cold.  It might mean temps that would prompt Chicagoans to  put on a long sleeve shirt (while the locals wear mittens and scarves).

After 4 nights,  we decided we are weary of wilderness. We need some commotion.  Maybe a siren.  Some exhaust fumes!  So we left the park and headed towards El Paso.  Our first thought was to stop there overnight on the way to Tucson to visit friends.  The folks in the RV across from us at the park, however,  described El Paso as the armpit of Texas.  Part of us wanted to experience that, especially after the pristine beauty of the Big Bend Nat’l Park.    The other part wanted a plan “B.”  You can guess which part was whose,  and which won.  Las Cruces, NM.   As we passed through El Paso and near Juarez, we decided we liked Plan B.   

Once firmly ensconced in the Walmart parking lot @ Las Cruces,  we looked at options for the next couple days. There was actually cell phone and internet service here!!!  We had built some extra time into our wandering, and the question was how to best use it.   Looking at the map, there is a town called “Truth or Consequences, NM.” And it is only an hour north of our current location.    

First,  though, just to confirm our resurfacing into the digital world, we needed to replace the screen on Liz’s brand new Samsung Galaxy S7 phone.  It seems it made a close and abrupt contact with the ground.  There was a place in Las Cruces with the necessary part and expertise. 

We experienced no particular Consequences (That’s the truth). So time to continue onwards towards California. On the way,  Hatch NM…self-anointed Chili Pepper capital of the world.   Our next stopping point:   Tucson, where we met a couple couples (not a typo!) of old friends.  Great to catch up.  Our “plan” for Tucson, at the encouragement of Heidi and Jack Wells was to visit the Arizona-Sonoma Desert Museum on Sunday morning on the way out of town.   Once again,  we are reminded not to plan.  POURING RAIN.  In the desert,  I might add.  Since this museum is 80% outdoors,  we made the decision to put it on the list for a future visit.

In driving a bit around Tucson,  we did get to SEE the desert…and it is quite different from the vast expanse of Texas and New Mexico we crossed. Lots of awesome and BIG cactus…esp. Saguaro.   Old friend Jack Hinkes explained that the desert and some of the abundance of cactus-types are not your friend…as he was attempting to desert-scape a somewhat overgrown area of his property. He described Jumping Cholla as a particular (and painful) nuisance cactus.   Not to mention Rattlesnakes.  

Our next destination is San Diego; however it exceeds our desired distance to travel in one day.  Therefore,  we are going to find a place somewhere between Tucson and SD  — perhaps Yuma.  Unless of course we happen upon a place with a name as consequential, and therefore essential as T&C, NM. 

 

We spent 4 days at an RV Park (more of an RV parking Lot) hard against the Rio Grande River.  While the RV Facilities were probably the plainest we have seen including many Walmart parking Lots,  the surrounding area is SPECTACULAR.  Now,  we are Midwestern flatlanders.  The desert is something new,  as are mountains rising to 7,000+feet.  Coyotes,  Javelinas (looks like a pig but actually more closely related to Hippopotamus)   Black Hawks, Road Runners, Mexican Blue Jays. Did I mention Coyotes?  One Coyote stops traffic and waits for a handout.  Sunset turns the hills from yellow to orange to pink against a vivid blue sky.  All of this all around the parking lot.  As a package,  the best place we have been so far. 

 

The first night it got really cold…AGAIN.  About 20 degrees.  No,  our blood has NOT gotten thin,  but our winter coats are back in Chicago!  The water hose for the RV actually began to freeze.  I caught it in time to extricate the snowcone it was becoming and we left the water running at a trickle.  Others were not so lucky.  Fortunately, the weather is expected to warm for the rest of the week.  I am beginning to think WE are the problem, having the cold follow us from Chicago to everywhere we go. 

We spent our first full day hiking.  Our neighbor at the RV park gave us a packet of material (we arrived too late to get to the visitor station).  From these we picked a short-ish route for our first real hike of our retirement.  A little less than 6 miles,  and about 800ft elevation change. 

  Absolutely spectacular in every direction.  Virtually alone (very few other hikers).  This was the “Window Trail” in the Chissos Mountain Basin.  This area is a bowl at about 3000 ft in the center of hills rising to about 7,000 ft.  The hike follows the path water takes to the “Window” where it falls (several thousand more feet!) out of the basin.  There was very little water,  but the hike was great,  and the window was really something to see – and imagine with torrents of water after a rain. 

 

 

After the “Main Course,”  we decided to have a little “Dessert” hike in the desert.  There is an old Hot Spring that is a short hike off a very rough road, which the Clown Car managed just fine though I think we disappeared in some of the ruts.  The Hot Springs used to be a Spa.  Actually extends out into the Rio Grande.  Dipped feet in the hot water,  then spin around and dip in the Cold Rio Grande.  Repeat several more times.  Many people dipped more than feet. AWESOME. 

Lunch at a National park restaurant in the basin where we earned about a new possibility.  Apparently,  there is a whole transient group of folks that work in National parks…waiters, housekeepers, caretakers.  Pay is not great,  but it includes accommodations at the national park.  Some live in trailers or dorms provided by the Park,  others have their own campers and live on camper sites provided by the park.  These folks move from park to park almost at will.  Our waiter said it is pretty easy to get hired anyplace you go.  Our waiter works winters at Big Bend and Summers at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  If this whole retirement thing doesn’t work out,  maybe we can become such migrant workers?

We also visited the ghost town of Terlingua.  They have a world chili cookoff every year,  and not much else.  We stopped for lunch…adequate

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Spoiler Alert:  A Political Thought…Worth considering regardless of your politics.

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As we walked on several trails and enjoyed the magnificent vistas in this park,  I was more than once struck by this thought:  Has Donald ever been to Texas?  Has he seen the magnificence of the Rio Grande,  the National Park, the desert, etc? Mexico is right across the Rio Grande – you can see it in our pictures,  and if you are so inclined,  walk across and touch it (no passport required).   For several hundred miles.   
Whatever your politics (and I try to keep politics OUT OF this website),  it is impossible to imagine (or justify) a WALL here.  The scale of Texas makes the whole idea comical, and the beauty – places like the Big Bend National park —  it would disrupt would make it tragic. 

 

We are purring down the road.  OK,  maybe “purring” is the wrong word.  Perhaps “Roaring?”  “Clattering?”

On the road begins with dinner with friends.  First in Lafayette, LA with LC Cambre.    LC is a very resourceful prince of a man.  He produced an exquisite meal entirely with a toaster oven and a microwave!  His main stove is a “Magic Chef” that is approximately 70 years old,  and according to LC the oven does not work very well.     Conversation was equally exquisite.  We are now planning to come back to Lafayette for Mardis Gras, and for more exquisite conversation.

Next, we headed west through Texas,  which seems to go on forever (or so we are told).  Our first stop in Texas confirmed some things for us: 

1. WE ARE IN TEXAS.  We went to a Costco to pick up a couple things.  We asked the manager if we could park overnight in the back of the lot.  He said,  “I don’t see why not, at your own risk of course…it is a reasonable neighborhood,  but our security man leaves at 11:00.”  We talked to security man…he asked if we had “Protection.”  In Texas (Open Carry), I guess,  that is the best way to be safe.  When we said “no” to the protection question,  he smiled,  but I think he now assumed we were from outer space.  Honestly,  the area looked good…lots of shopping malls and traffic…reminded me of Schaumburg right down to the IKEA. We had a great spot in the back of the lot, but it now made Liz nervous to stay here.   
2. In particular,  Houston.  We opened our APP and found a little “RV and Trailer Park.”  Near the Costco and one space available.  Liz felt better about being with other trailers (who may have the necessary “protection”).  We drove there and found it to be a combination RV park and trailer park…several permanent trailers,  a couple of campers and a fifth-wheel.  All this in the middle of a neighborhood.  Across the street a couple newer, large-ish brick house.  On the block several modest houses.  A Hispanic grocery store.  I cannot imagine this mix of uses in Chicago – but this is what a city with reputedly no zoning laws looks like!!   Anyway,  we pulled in and everything was PERFECT.

While in Houston, we were able to organize breakfast with old friend Jacob Leon.  It was great to catch up! 

Texas is going to be COLD for a couple days.  That means 25 degrees F at night.  It is amazing how fast one’s blood thins!   This morning, a few hours before we passed through, San Antonio Hiways were reported treacherous – ICING PRECIP.  Déjà vu.   Fortunately,  due to breakfast with Jacob, we missed that fun, and the  Bus is warm enough during the day with engine heat,  and at night the propane furnace.  Worried a little about the valves on the holding tanks,  so we’ll try to stay at parks vs. Walmarts for a couple days, allowing us to leave the valves open and a trickle of water going.   

We are driving west…heading for BIG BEND National Park where we will stay for a FOUR DAYS.  Texas being rather large,  we think it will take us 2-3 days to get there!!!  NO PROBLEM.  No Schedule,  No Plans…

Once we get to the park,  I suspect we will go dark,  internet-wise.  In the meantime,  you can anticipate a sad blog post about a trail of orphan socks.