Month: March 2016

  • We’re Baaaack!

    Although we are currently undergoing severe croissant withdrawal in addition to Jetlag, we have successfully navigated our way back to Chicago.   I suspect it will be a few days until we manage to stay up past 8:00 and sleep past 4:00. But we have no reason to be on a “normal” schedule.

    Our drive back to Paris was uneventful. We stopped twice. The first was in Strasbourg France. This was a VERY cool town. The Rhine river cuts through, and the town is fairly industrial. But the old town, including some old stone river locks and a 13th century MAGNIFICENT cathedral, were very interesting.

    Our Airbnb in Strasbourg was a place our charming host described as “French-Communist-Chic.”  He was describing a hulking, grey concrete apartment block.  But the unit itself was charming, with one of the best showers in France (in our experience) and a perfect WiFi!!  And it’s location was EXCELLENT…near the old-town center and tucked in with newer (but in Europe,  that means 1800-era) apartments.

    I sort of wish we had allocated a couple of days to Strasbourg.

    We then stopped at an airport hotel near CDG (Paris). This was just to make getting to our morning flite an easy process. Our hotel was a “NOMAD” hotel. I would characterize it as super-modern. There was a tablet to control all room functions (projection TV, lighting color, window blinds, etc.).  The clear glass shower “tube” (I don’t know any other way to describe it) in the middle of the room felt like a transporter chamber,  and I wondered if I said “Energize” could I skip the flite home and just materialize in our living room?  But despite the high-tech-ness, it was still an economy hotel. The hallway lights turn on as you walk down the hall and the toilet “compartment” light goes off if you are still too long. No reading the paper in there!!

    The flite itself was thoroughly uneventful. Left on time. Good seats (for economy). Arrived an hour early. In today’s air travel environment, uneventful is all one can ask for and the very best you will ever experience.

     

  • The LAST “Fun” in Austria (Salzburg again)

    2016-03-13 13.31.05Sunday we went back to Salzburg, stopping for coffee at a beautiful Alpine Lake in between. Our mission in Salzburg was “Sound of Music” immersion. As mentioned elsewhere, we booked a “Bob’s Tour.”

    The beauty of such organized tours is that you see and learn things you could not possibly do on your own. And WHAT is seen and learned varies from person to person. So, for Liz, This special 4-hour “Sound of Music extravaganza” included the Von Trapp house — both of them as the front of the castle was a different house than the back. And the inside was somewhere else entirely (Hollywood, actually). Also the pavilion, the Abbey gate and lane leading to the Von Trapp Castle, The roadside trees (w/o kids in upholstery), WEDDING CHURCH (omg). Also, some personal stories behind the movie. For example, there was a SCUBA DIVER under the boat for the scene where Julie and the kids fall out.

    For me the tour was also full of highlights. The Red Bull World Headquarters, a REAL Adelweiss flower (in a souvenir shop), actual apple strudel with Vanilla ice cream and SO MUCH MORE.  I also came away with some very valuable insight and historical perspective. I believe that Red Bull was actually INVENTED to make Julie Andrews and all those precocious kids so, so… PERKY. In fact, had the Von Trapps not carried the secret of Red Bull with them to Switzerland (which, BTW is several hundred KM from Salzburg, NOT just over the hill – that is Germany), WWII could have ended very differently. The tour guide could not (would not) refute this.

    2016-03-13 17.29.31-1

    After the SOM, we needed to decompress. SO naturally we went to the Augustiner Monastery, where the Monks make beer.   In HUGE quantities. There are at least 6 halls (each of which can seat at least 300 people family style – and they were quite crowded) for you to sit and drink…and food stands making all manner of sausage, Schnitzel, etc. Brigitta was our designated driver for the trip back to Linz. The rest of us supported the monks, financially if not philosophically.

    Today we are leaving Linz and our friends Brigitta and Herman. We head back to Paris…stopping tonight in Strasbourg. We are READY to leave Austria.

    SudokuInGermanHere is how I know we have FULLY absorbed Austrian Culture: Liz is doing Sudoku in German!

  • STILL Fun in Austria! (Vienna)

    Yesterday we took the train to Wein. Which was a little puzzling to me until I realized that was “Vienna,” which we had discussed and intended to visit. Once I had achieved that level of clarity, I was ready for the day!

    Again, a really fascinating day. Beginning with the fast train (a little over an hour to Vienna). Then a couple of short distances on the “U” (underground). Then a walk to the Schönbrunn Palace.   This is the Austrian answer to Versaille. Large and impressive, with especially impressive gardens. We climbed up high in the gardens for a scenic overlook of Vienna.

    TafelspitzALAPlachutta.30We then had some more traditional Austrian fare. This time a famous beef dish (Tafelspitz) at a famous restaurant (Plachutta — the emperor’s favorite). It is basically a beef soup with various vegetables and sides of potatoes, spinach, butter beans, Marrow (to spread on bread). And in the beef soup are LARGE slices of beef. SO, as you can imagine, this was a light, dainty dish!   It was also the BEST beef soup ever. But good thing we had A LOT more walking in the afternoon.

    We had a tour guide recommended by the guide in Linz. She was EXCELLENT. We walked through a lot if courtyards and alleyways of the medieval and newer parts of the city. We learned about the SEVERAL subterranean levels UNDER the older parts of the city. About the plague. The “poor” Jesuits whose churches are made of plaster and painted “false 3-d” cupolas instead of Marble and astonishment.  The tours we have had have REALLY enhanced our visit.

    After the tour and a bit of walking in the very crowded pedestrian area near St. Stephens (with high end and local shopping and famous coffee and bakery houses – the home of Julius Mienl and the Mienl Museum!), we had a drink at a Bar overlooking Vienna.  Camera battery dead,  so few pictures.  Then we went back to the train station (by U) and back to Linz. For dinner. This time SUSHI, because we were in beef overload.

    Today is Sunday and we are going to go to Salzburg. We have booked a “Sound of Music” tour with “Bob’s Tour Company.” You can’t make this stuff up. Liz will be in heaven…Dan is going to need a beer.

    Tomorrow we begin heading back to Paris for our flight home (Wednesday morning). We have an AIRBNB booked in Strasbourg (Old City area) for Monday night.

  • The Fun in Austria Continues! (Linz)

    We have spent a couple more days enjoying the hospitality of our friends and their country.  Today, it was a city tour of Linz, hosted by a friend of Brigitta’s. As always, the history and reality is a lot more interesting when someone knowledgeable peels back the layers. We learned about the merchant history of the town, Mozart (he had a cup of coffee here, too, apparently), the Nazis, the effort (and success) at reinventing industry and commerce and more (and more, and more).

    RetinaDHHLater in the day, we visited the ARS ELECTRONICA Museum of the Future. A REALLY fascinating place. There was a 3D tour of the universe in ultra-high resolution. There were kiosks with satellite images of many places in the world. There was a really interesting exhibit on vision. On Prosthetic devices; on Virtual Reality. For those who have been to Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry, this is similar. Except the exhibits are ALL future looking (no old tractors, coal mines, 727 or steam locomotives); very sophisticated. And, the mobs of kids are super-well-behaved and speaking German (and only when spoken to). So I guess NOT like MOSI at all.

    Just a snack
    Just a snack
    Gelateros - Frequent Eaters of Gelato
    Gelateros – Frequent Eaters of Gelato

    We have had (of course) several excellent meals and (of course) Gelato. We are resting right now in preparation for another meal. Tomorrow we are scheduled to visit Vienna for the day by train. Brigitta’s friend who gave such a fascinating tour in Linz has a friend there; so another tour is one of the plans for the day. I am SURE the rest of the day will involve eating, and probably Gelato.

  • Enjoying Austria (A LOT!)

    We drove from Munich to Salzburg, Leizen and then on to Linz. Scenery just as stunning as we saw previously. I told our friends in Leizen that they live in possibly the most beautiful place on Earth!

    Enjoying an unfiltered Blonde Ale in Salzburg
    Enjoying an unfiltered Blonde Ale in Salzburg

    We stopped overnight in Salzburg. Wandered around. Had a couple meals. A really beautiful place. The afternoon we arrived, it was rainy and foggy…we could not see much of the surrounding area. So we focused on the old town area (featured prominently in Sound of Music) and a couple of really nice meals. The next morning was bright and sunny… and revealed STUNNING scenery surrounding the town. There are spectacular hills that rise up hundreds of feet IMMEDIATELY adjacent to the town. Like STRAIGHT UP. Like when you look up, the height tricks your eyes and you think the hills might actually be hanging over the town. With evergreens and snow.

    Next we drove on to Leizen for lunch with some old friends from business travel – the Schreiners. I first discussed with Gunther whether we should force the GPS to take us through the mountains on smaller roads (vs. the Motorway). He assured me there was no snow, even at the higher elevations, to be concerned with. Boy was this a good decision. Again, STUNNING scenery as we wind through the Alps on the way to Leizen from Salzburg. Elevations as high as 3500m (and that was the pass between peaks).

    We had lunch at a local place high above Leizen. Then back to their house for coffee and dessert (homemade apple strudel).   For perspective, I include a couple pictures taken out their home and office windows, and by the restaurant. Imagine trying to get some work done with that in your face!  Of course,  this from a guy who’s office was in a basement for the past 15 years…

     

    Brigitta and Herman - Dinner over Linz
    Brigitta and Herman – Dinner over Linz

    Then, on to Linz to meet our friend Brigitta and her friend Herman. After finding her place, navigating parking and getting settled (and also navigating some beer and appetizers they had ready) they took us to dinner.   This was at an old place overlooking Linz (overlooking by about 1000 ft).   Then back downtown for a nightcap (or several). Haven’t been out ‘til 1:30 since…well I can’t remember when.

    Today we drove to the Salzkammergut area. The drive through again (still, ho hum) spectacular scenery with mountain lakes, snow-covered peaks and post card towns. Salzkammergut includes a Cable car to the top – a ski area that is at about 2,800m. It has one of the longest ski runs IN THE WORLD at 11km. We took said car and walked around at the top…an absolutely clear day…fairly warm. Sat in the sun and had a bowl of beef-pancake soup. Then we went to Bad Ischl, which is a spa area where the Emperor Franz Joseph spent summers.

    We are here for 3 more days. Tomorrow we are going to do some stuff in Linz, including a city tour. Saturday I think we are going to take the train to Vienna with Brigitta and Herman for the day.

  • Stunning, Spectacular Drive

    SOMOK.  I didn’t take this photo.  After all,  I was driving and Liz was gawking. Mountains left and right. On Monday we drove from Verona to Munich. In between the scenery was possibly the most beautiful anywhere.    It was about a 5 hour drive.  Fresh snow. Postcard Italian and Austrian towns. You could hear Maria singing (or, maybe it was Liz?).   So I was certainly THINKING this photo.   ABSOLUTELY SPECTACULAR almost the entire way.

    Once in Munich, we met some family friends for a short tour and then a Bavarian Dinner. With a Bavarian beer, of course. Pretty awesome stuff.  A bit on the “filling” side,  I should probably mention.

    Today we are in Salzburg.  Just a stopover on the way to meeting friends.  Beautiful town.  More of Liz dreaming of “Climbing Every Mountain…”

  • Verona: Romeo and Guiliette and Liz and Dan

    Rainbow over Verona
    Rainbow over Verona

    Our AIRBNB in Verona is EXCELLENT (with a couple of caveats). We were able to secure a free parking spot right in front. In an old building, the apartment itself is very modern and comfortable. The toilet works and accepts everything a working toilet SHOULD accept. So we no longer need the poodle-sacks we obtained in Monaco. I can even stand in the shower, and there is a washing machine.

    The caveats: No coffee maker — not a big deal as we are a 5-minute walk from the center and there are plenty of coffee makers there. The other caveat relates again to hair dryers (readers will think we are obsessed…). This time there WAS a hair dryer, but we could NOT find a place to plug it in anywhere near a mirror and certainly not in the bathroom.

    Lots of pedestrian streets in the center. Nice to walk. We stopped for drinks at a random bar on a random square. Bartender spoke English very well, and we discussed Futbol (the European Variety). There was a match on…apparently quite an important one. Verona vs. somebody. I asked him which color shirts I should root for. He said “Yellow.” They lost.  Beer was Belgian, however. And quite good.

    I tried to explain Hockey to him. Like futbol only faster.

    Dinner was a Veronnaise family place recommended by our host.  We had a 3-course meal with Local Wine Pairings by our new best friend Paulo.  Lots of fun, and really tasty. There were two fixed menus available. The one featuring Horse Stew we decided against. I am sure it is EXCELLENT, but I still have memories of my last regional delicacy: Pig Poo Sausage.

    Shakespeare's Second Career
    Shakespeare’s Second Career

     

    The owner looked JUST like a friend of ours in Chicago. When I told him this, he insisted on giving us a bottle of local wine to take back and drink with his “cousin.” Dinner finished with a bit of Grappa and we staggered home.

    Today our itinerary was tempered by Dan feeling a little under the weather. Not saying I was hung over…actually a cold ++. But I AM sticking to beer and NO GRAPPA in the near future. Anyway, we took a shorter walk. We went in search of Juliette’s house. There are signs pointing…but they seemed to lead us in circles. At one point we DID find a building labelled “Romeo et Guiliette” but it was a hotel.

    A little discouraged, we stopped and had a pizza at Bill’s place. Thus inspired, we DID find the “official” place where Guiliette lived. Truth be told, we followed a tour guide. Tour was in Italian,   but he was holding up a little blue flag in the crowd and we figured that is where HE was going.

    This evening we were still full from Pizza for lunch. (Really good, BTW. That Bill guy had skills!). Dan was also feeling still a little “punk.”  So we went and had a Gelato.

    Tomorrow we hit the road again. To Munich to visit the son of a friend of Mom’s. We are hoping our path across the Alps will be blessed with reasonable weather.

     

  • Nice: Torrential Rains

    We went out for breakfast before leaving Nice for Verona. And We were TRAPPED, Torrential Rains. Water gushing down the streets of the Old Town. Biblical rains.

    But, before you start feeling sorry for us, although we were in fact trapped…we were trapped IN A BAKERY!   With an unlimited supply of fresh hot croissants, baguettes, panini and just about anything else we could want including plenty of coffee. And a nice little table to watch the rain. We just sat, and waited, and ate. The shower passed in about 45 minutes. ;-(

  • Monaco…what a WEIRD Place

    We took the train today to Monaco. It’s about 30 minutes from Nice, but might as well be another planet.

    We Spent the morning wandering the marina where the superyachts of the rich and famous are moored. Saw the Casino, the streets where the Grand Prix happens. There were two Rolls Royces dropping people off at the casino, and several Ferraris and Lamborghinis noisily announcing their presence.  There was a yacht store. By appointment only. I am sure to get an appointment they would need to verify the size of your bank account.

    All I can think is “What a weird place.”

    38,000 people live in Monaco. All of them rich and living there for the favorable tax environment. It costs $4k/day to moor your Yacht – and that is offseason. During the Grand Prix, the same spot costs $100K per week. 30,000 people A DAY commute from Nice and the surrounding

    Liz's Real World Solution to our Ancient Toilet in Nice!
    Liz’s Real World Solution to our Ancient Toilet in Nice!

    area to service the rich and famous in the Casino and in restaurants, cleaning and servicing boats, cooking, etc. We met an Irish woman on the train. She said she HATED Monaco (but obviously made her living there).

     

    It was nice to get back on the train to the real world.

    Liz DID solve one of our real-world problems, though, while we were in Monaco. We picked up several doggie-poop sacks from dispensers outside the Casino. I am sure these are meant for the Poodles of the rich and famous. However, we intend to keep them handy in case the ancient and decrepit plumbing in our studio fails us.

     

     

    SO many flavors,  so little time
    SO many flavors, so little time

    This afternoon, we intend to hike back into the old city area near our place. Dan is going to stick his toe in the Mediterranean. Then we are going to have more sushi, dinner in another local seafood place and, of course, gelato.

     

    Tomorrow we move on. Our schedule has congealed.

    • We are travelling from Nice to Verona and staying 2 nights,
    • Then from Verona to Munich, where we are spending one night only, but having dinner with an old family friend. This was a late add to our itinerary when I realized we COULD hit Munich on the way to Austria (sort of).
    • Then we drive to Salzburg for one just night.
    • Then to Liezen to meet more old friends for lunch on 9 March.

    We are staying in Austria in total for 5 days, so I am SURE we will be back to Salzburg.  This one night stop is just to make it short to Liezen for lunch. I found a Salzburg AIRBNB for $31!!   Could its toilet work any worse that the one here in Nice?

     

  • Nice is, well, nice!

    I know, not funny.   But so far,  my favorite of all the places we have been in France.

    Palace of the Popes - Avignon
    Palace of the Popes – Avignon

    We drove to Nice via Avignon.  This was seat of the Catholic Church in the 13th century.  9 popes.  We toured the Palace of the Popes.  It is only fair to compare this to the Vatican.  Avignon seemed a working place.  the actual seat of a religion.  The Vatican seemed self-impressed and built to impress.  The former was about the faith.  The latter about appearances.   The former built of unadorned stone.  The latter out of ostentatious marble and gold.    That is just one (Jewish) man’s impression.

    So we arrive in Nice and check in. After cruising for parking (NOT POSSIBLE) we finally relented and put the car in a paid garage.   NOTE TO SELF: Our next European trip will be by Train…a car is NOT an advantage.

    The apartment building PREDATES the French Revolution (1789). The building next door is a place where Mr. Bonaparte himself actually lived for 6 months. This makes the neighborhood WAY COOL. The suite itself is modern. At least it appears modern because the age of the building comes with some challenges. For example…NO Solid ANYTHING to be flushed down the toilet (Paper in the can, the manual can). And soft showers or the drains overflow. That should be no prob. As we are experienced in RV Showers (sometimes called “Navy Showers”).

    Having said that, the suite is totally fine. Good internet. I could not imagine a cooler neighborhood to spend a couple of days. TONS of restaurants and bars. A walking area. Lots of activity. This is a distinct contrast to the really quiet places we have stayed so far.   I should mention the pièce de résistance, there is a GELATO PLACE Downstairs. In the same building. That is EXCELLENT, and pretty dangerous.

    Our host (Daniel) is a 50-something guy who speaks perfect English. Great sense of humor. He lives in the suite…what he seems to have done is take a larger apartment and create his unit and 2 studio units for rental. So we have a private space but direct access to the Landlord if necessary. He gave us a bunch of “Local” restaurant recommendations. He told us how to take the train to Monaco (a 6e bargain).

    Seafood Extravaganza
    Seafood Extravaganza

    Liz and I have decided to try one of the Local places tonight. We were directed into the old town (which our suite is on the edge of).   AWESOME. Hundreds of restaurants. There was even a square with FOUR Gelato shops. We ended up eating a seafood extravaganza at a restaurant recommended by our host as THE place locals go for seafood (for over 100 years). Not yet full, we went to another spot and had some sushi. Followed with Gelato, of course.

    Tomorrow we’ll get up early and take the train to Monaco. Spend some time there; maybe have some lunch, buy a yacht. Drop a mil at the tables.