Well, after full and unqualified approval from several of my new besties (cardiologists), we have arrived in Costa Rica!!
Our first stop was an overnight in Dallas, where we planned to overlap our orbit with Aussie friend, Norman Same, who was passing thru the States on Business. The plan was to stay at the airport hotel, have dinner (and, if I were to be fully honest, a couple adult beverages), and fly out the next day. This sequence allowed us to book a CHEAP flite to CR because of the “undesirable” overnight connection. The AA Booking system has a RED WARNING on the screen when it offers such Caca for travelers. But in our case, this was the PERFECT SITUATION!!
Before our flite left South Texas for Dallas, we had already communicated with Norman…he was wandering around the airport, trying to find a way to get to the “airport hotel.” He eventually found a shuttle bus, even though he could see the building from the terminal!!! We had been told that there was a walkway “adjacent to gate C19” and thru the parking lot…so we decided to try that.
What we discovered was a COMPLETE LACK OF SIGNAGE in the terminal. We finally found an airport worker who personally did not know, but found someone who did. Turns out the “walkway” is near gate C15, down the corridor labeled “Chapel.” And its not actually a “walkway.” You do walk, but just thru the parking garage to a STAIRWAY on the other side that eventually leads to the Hyatt Regency.
they don’t care enough
When I later received one of those “Thank you for staying with us…would you complete a survey.” I mentioned this absurd lack of signage. They actually responded directly, saying that had no control over airport signage, to which I call BS! They are obviously a BIG airport tenant…I am SURE they could “ask nicely” for signs. The truth is, even though the survey asks for opinions and suggestions, they don’t care enough to pass this along with a strong recommendation to their landlord!!
Anyway, we made it to the Hotel, and to dinner, which was AWESOME. After dinner, we ordered a Scotch, and I was intrigued by a spirit called “Monkey Shoulder” on the “Single Malt” List. Knowing absolutely nothing about wine or spirits, I usually buy Spirits and Wine according to the most interesting label, so we ordered a couple! It was AWFUL. Not a “Single” but a Blend. And probably a blend of methyl alcohol and turpentine. And really not drinkable (IMHO). The waitress smiled, took it off our bill and we ordered something more traditional (and excellent).
making sure before they even knew me that we were planning to leave!
The next day, we caught our flite to CR (about 4 hours only from Dallas!) and our adventures began! Customs was easy – they wanted our address, which I gave them of the first AirBNB, and they wanted to see our return ticket. Taking no chances, I guess…making sure before they even knew me that we were planning to leave! Then, it was time to negotiate with the ATM, then the Airport Taxi. Let’s just say, we are still alive and so the negotiations must have been at least “adequate.”
The ATM asked first if we wanted “ingles,” to which I appropriately responded “yes.” Then it asked for an amount. I put in “50,” and the machine kept giving me an error…”Please enter a non-zero amount…” Well, mea culpa… I hadn’t really researched the local currency, and later realized 50 Colones would be USD$0.10. Yes, a dime! Since I had US$ for the Taxi, this was not really an immediate issue, so, mañana! The Taxi driver offered to take us to our AirBNB in San Jose City Center for $40…which I think was a little high, based on the UBER costs we later came to know. I always compare to other big cities…in Chicago an airport transfer will be AT LEAST that, so whatever! And When I DID later visit an ATM, and asked for 60,000CRC (about $100), the machine was MUCH more accommodating!
The Taxi Driver dropped us on a street corner, and loosely pointed “alli!” There were no signs or evidence that I could see. Eventually, a guy outside the barber shop next to our AirBNB pointed to the door…pretty clearly we weren’t the first wanderers to be in that situation. From thence forward, things began to look up!
We discovered a few things early on…
1) Our Spanish is not very good! Despite having taken lessons a few years back, hearing individual words in the torrent that happens when in country is pretty much impossible. Mas Despacio, Por Favor works for about 1 sentence, only…
2) UBER is FANTASTIC for getting around because you do not need to even try to find las palabras para describir donde vamos. Just put in the destination, wait a couple minutes and get in the car. Easy! And REALLY CHEAP!!! And
3) English-speakers are not as common as we had been lead to believe! But, this may only be in San Jose…we have yet to be in real “expat-oriented” areas. Finally,
4) The “Google Live Translate” function I was hoping to use is actually a Beta product, the button for which disappears and appears on a random basis…thank you, Google!!! This LIVE TRANSLATE function is supposed to listen via your earphones, and send the translation to one ear…the other earphone translates the other way if you want to try to have a conversation – just give the spanish earphone to the other party!! I tested this in the USA, and it seemed to work pretty well, and seemed like it would be quite useful. NOT. BUT, “regular” Google Translate does work quite well by typing, and is used by everyone – workers at Panaderias, bus station ticket sellers…everyone is used to this. WHen attempts at verbal communications end in a puzzled smile (on either side), out comes everyone’s phone. I actually find that a smile is far more important than Google translate in “getting by.”
The AirBNB in San Jose was “interesting.” It was very comfortable, secure and centrally located. I would definitely stay there again for experiencing San Jose. But, I should have known something was “different” about the place when I saw two packages of ear plugs next to the supplied coffee machine/supplies. EAR PLUGS! Turns out there are several Bars and Clubs on the block…one directly across from our door. They BLARE LOUD MUSIC, until 2am! Our unit was actually pretty quiet, considering this…we didn’t even use the ear plugs. One evening we stopped over for a beer and explained (through Google Translate) that we were from across the street. But, we were smiling, not complaining, so the Bartender was quite friendly.
Another interesting thing about San Jose: there are more Barber Shops per block than anywhere else we have ever been. At one point, walking back to our apartment after one museum or another, Liz said, “There’s the barber shop” (meaning the one next to our place). No, it was the one around the corner, and then there was one more on our block B4 the one by our place! You also cannot use as landmarks Panaderias or Chicken Windows (little mini-KFC-like places) as there are several on every block.
Speaking of Barbers, Liz DID get an actual Haircut. No direct communication, but managed to get her wishes across by gestures and pictures…and she wasn’t crying when done!!!
Speaking of Panaderias, we have sort of made a habit of having breakfast at one of these. They have all sorts of pastries and at least adequate coffee, at very reasonable prices.
Our time in San Jose was spent wandering the very lively central district. There are several pedestrian streets, and a fun Central Market with a “Soda” Core where you can get all manner of CR food. “Sodas” are the name for little mom-and-pop restaurants, serving basic local fare – they are VERY common, everywhere.
Within easy walking distance were the National Museum of Costa Rica, the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum/exhibit, and the Jade Museum. A short Uber away was the Costa Rican Art Museum (in the 30’s-era airport terminal). All of those helped us understand Costa Rica’s very interesting history and Politics.
And, speaking of politics, we witnessed something that could never happen in the USA (besides excellent health care). It was national election time, and we saw a HUGE political rally/caravan on one of the main streets. It was miles long…cars proceeding slowly, waving flags, honking horns. Our waiter explained these were supporters of the presidential candidates. BOTH OF THEM. In the same rally. No shots fired, no ugly rhetoric. Our waiter disclosed he was for one candidate, another overhearing this shook her head and indicated she was for the other. All of it like a party, with a slight disagreement over what the DJ should play next.
We could learn a thing or two from Costa Rica, about both Politics AND Healthcare (more on the latter, below).
We spent a week in San Jose, then it was time to start wandering. We decided to head, first, to the Caribbean coast…less popular with expats. To get there, we selected a city that was sort of central, Limón, lined up an AirBnB and bought a bus ticket! After negotiating with the ticket agent using Google Translate, we acquired tickets that turned out to be in the front row of the upper deck of a very comfortable bus. I had sort of expected chickens and goats, but this was a very nice experience. It was $15 total, for both of us. We have SINCE taken buses that are a little more threadbare, but so far no chickens or goats.
Anyway, this was a bus like no other I have ever seen! It had not only dual rear axles (like Good Trouble does!), but also dual, steerable front axles. I was pretty impressed…almost wanted to crawl under and look at the mechanics of it all. Liz rolled her eyes and was ready to ask the driver to strap me to one of those axles!!!
“Dangerous” comments from people who have never been there (or outside of their comfort zone) and are only repeating what others, who have never been there, say
Limón was explained as “Dangerous and Cartel-overrun.” We found it to be friendly and gregarious…in a Caribbean way. In fact, what we have learned over the years is to NOT LISTEN to the “Dangerous” comments from people who have never been there (or outside of their comfort zone) and are only repeating what others, who have never been there, say. Chicago is often spoken about the same way, which we know to be absurd. You ALWAYS have to be careful, aware of your surroundings, and not ostentatious…I once remember attending a conference where one of the attendees had his Rolex stolen off his wrist. I did not say anything, but I was thinking that a Timex also tells time… Anyway, we DO NOT STAY HOME in the face of such suggestions.
We had booked an AirBNB in Limón that was advertised as “Ecofriendly” and basic. It WAS that, but it was WAY MORE RUSTIC than we expected (and we are pretty easy-going). It had hot water, but only in the shower, and only sort of. It had no screens on the windows, and tons of mosquitos. Liz, of course, being so sweet, is very susceptible, so we had to use AirCon 24×7 and keep the windows closed. I guess all of that could have been tolerable – it WAS cheap – but the mattress was UNBELIEVABLE HARD. I did not sleep a wink, so, feeling grumpy, we decided to move.
From there, we found another AirBNB in central Limón that honestly, is the best one we have ever stayed at on MANY, MANY trips.
Our hosts are charming, there are screens on the windows and a fully stocked kitchen (including fresh bread, eggs and juice). Very easy as a base to walk around Limón.
One day, our host, Arrie, asked if we wanted to go “on an adventure” to the neighboring area of Cahuita. We NEVER say “no” to such offers, so off we went. Arrie suggested walking boots, as it might be muddy.
The Adventure turned out to be to a piece of property our hosts had bought with the intention of creating a “Wellness Resort.” At present, it’s a piece of land with organic fruit trees strewn about, muddy trails and some partial clearings where Arrie’s vision will be realized.
Arrie and Tanya are actually from New York (Tanya’s family is originally from CR), and Arie was explaining how different it is to “do things” here. Things have their own pace, and as someone coming in from the outside, they are super-friendly and welcoming, but [Ticos] don’t appreciate people who bring their own pace with them. For example, Arrie was a landlord in the Bronx, but here, his architect said he wasn’t ready, and needed some more time. In New York, there would have been screaming and shouting about deadlines and penalties. In CR, the plans will be ready in the fullness of time.
Anyway, if you are ever in search of a place to stay on the east side of CR, many will tell you that Cahuita or Puerto Viejo is the place to be…I can’t argue with that, and the beaches ARE nicer. We enjoyed Limón and staying with Tanya and Arie…there is a public bus to both of those other places for about $4 each way. Limón actually had a lot to recommend it…a lively local market and streets, some excellent restaurants.
Also, possibly the ugliest Cathedral in the western hemisphere, if not the world!?
And, many sightings of our favorite CR Bird! Apparently, people do come here and spend enormous energy (and US$) just to see the many avian residents or transients. We found our favorite, the “Imperial” to be quite common, and very enjoyable on a hot afternoon.
While in Limon, we also had a minor Medical Issue. We have always been curious about the healthcare system down here, because we have been learning in our travel research that MANY countries have MUCH BETTER healthcare than what we tolerate in the USA while proclaiming we have the best. That is likely true of CR, but we were not hoping for ANY first-hand experience…
It was a hot day, and we were climbing up a steep street and uneven sidewalk towards an overlook where you could see the entire city. About half way up, Liz stopped for a breath…then suggested I go on by myself. Worth noting, it was Liz, who runs 4 miles a day, vs. Dan, who has a pacemaker, so this was not “usual.”
Then she started looking very pale and unsteady.
Good thing, too, because Liz was shortly no longer part of the conversation!
There was a “security Guard” (I think more likely employed by the tourist bureau or chamber of commerce) in the booth at the top…he saw the situation developing and brought a chair down for Liz. Good thing, too, because Liz was shortly no longer part of the conversation! When she rejoined, the guard, whose name was “Bik” offered a bottle of water. Liz winked out a couple more times, and I asked Bik if he could get an ambulance. He walked down to the bottom of the hill, and started talking to some folks in the house there. At this point, Liz was starting to feel better, so I waved and communicated that we had decided no ambulance was required. At which point, the resident of the House, Manfred, climbed the hill with Bik and brought another bottle of water.
Liz sat in the chair for awhile, then we decided to start down…Bik followed us with the chair to the next landing, where Liz sat for a bit more. Now starting to REALLY feel better, Manfred offered that we could sit on his nice, shady porch until an Uber arrived. And we successfully Ubered back to base, where liz focused on hydration and relaxation for the rest of the day.
In retrospect, this was probably nothing more than a hyper-caffeinated dehydration event. We had a pretty light brekkie, 2 cups of strong coffee and then walked about 2 miles at a pretty steady pace (which is very usual for us) in 99% humidity. That’s the usual humidity here on the Caribbean coast, except when it goes up to 101% and rains. Liz said she was feeling a little “jittery” from the coffee before we walked, and I think the rest was just an unwelcome cascade. She has been fine, since, and we are VERY careful to drink lots of water.
Also while in Limón, we booked an all-day tour with a fella I “met” via Google. His name was Eduardo Humphreys, but he introduced himself as Humphrey Bogard. He offered us a private tour that ticked all the boxes I wanted, and said he would pick us up “tomorrow at 8am.” Wanted to be paid in cash. Our hosts had not heard of his company “Your Lucky Tour“, . I know I mentioned we don’t believe in the “danger” people often talk about from afar, but I have to admit, I was feeling cautious.
That lasted about 10 seconds…Eduardo showed up in an immaculate cab driven by his brother, David, and they proceeded to amuse us THOROUGHLY for the entire day. This included a boat ride through the Canals of the Tortuguero national park. Eduardo said he could not PROMISE we would see ANY wildlife because he owns no plastic monkeys. We did, in fact, see an abundance of stuff. Iguana, two-and-three-toed Sloth, Howler, Spider and Capuchin Monkeys. A tiny Golden Viper snake. Frogs (poison arrow and otherwise). They even pointed out the revered “Black Chickens” at the local market. Thinking this was some delicacy we should experience, I spent awhile trying to see these elusive creatures, until David let slip that that was a vulture. They did NOT taste like chicken, he said! Speaking of taste, we also went to an indigenous area where we participated in chocolate-making (and eating).
So, as I write this, we are getting ready to move onwards. Today is a laundry day, which our hosts offered us including pods. And Blog day. Tomorrow we get picked up by a travel company and delivered to our next destination at La Fortuna in north-central CR. and a formal, 4-day 3-night tour. We would have taken the bus to where the tour starts, but it looked like it would have been 7+ hours and 2 buses with a connection. So I asked the tour company to bundle in transport. We will be touring the Volcano at Arenal, taking a boat across Lake Arenal and hiking in the Cloud Forest in Monteverde; must dos, we have been told. As part of the tour, we will be ATVing in a wilderness area and white water rafting. If we survive all that, we are heading to the West coast, which is more of the “expat” area of CR. We’ll report on all of those things in subsequent posts.
Until then, the appropriate response we have learned to the generic “How are you doing” is “Pura Vida. “
